I woke at 4 a.m. after a fitful night of elusive sleep. I was like a kid on Christmas Eve. I'm pretty sure I smiled all night. I kissed my sweetie goodbye (he's such a good sport), and hit the highway. The weather forecast, both local and nationally, were screaming warnings about a frigid week and "polar vortex" nonsense. I had visions of standing on an exposed mountain side in gale winds with snowflakes swirling.
It was nippy at predawn, but as the sun rose, so did the temps and I was heartened that it might be fair skies and tepid temperatures after all. I arrived in western town of Medora on time and quickly located my group. I was the last to arrive - story of my life. We shook hands all around, introduced ourselves, and got back into our cars to follow the paleontologists to the site.
It is something of a misnomer that North Dakota topography is flat. I have lived in Kansas and driven through a good many plains states, believe me, North Dakota is not flat. There are gentle rolling hills and buttes through much of the state, and there the Badlands on the western edge of the state. Its like having our own mini Grand Canyon. The Badlands are beautiful. This is where I was to spend two glorious days under and upside-down bowl of endless blue sky and cotton-puff clouds. I can think of worse ways to spend my time.
We drove our vehicles as far as the terrain and "roads" would allow, then pulled off and loaded heavier-duty vehicles for the final stretch. Before loading up, our tools for the day were handed out; a trowel, a soft brush, work gloves, a large pick, and a smaller pick. We ended our ride at a ravine, gathered our gear, and finished the hike on foot. No trail here. Course prairie grasses and stubby sage bushes scraped our ankles as we wound our way toward a high bluff and particular Juniper bush that marked the dig site.
The view from the top was breathtaking. Not a road, house, or any other sign of civilization was visible from a 360 degree angle. Bluffs, buttes, and vistas everywhere I looked. The sun was bright and the winds light - in short, a perfect day.
The dig site was further up the butte and a few shovels and picks were scattered around, from a group the day before. Our guides, paleontologists Becky and Jeff, explained in detail how we were to begin by taking off the first foot or so of bank with the shovels.
What I thought was stony hillside was actually soft clay that came off easily. We were trying to get to the rich layer of black organic matter underneath the gray clay layer, where the fossils were hiding. We tossed the clay layer over the side of the butte, then claimed our individual spots where we would spend our time trying to find amazing discoveries. My novice status was quickly evident. I stabbed too much and dug too fast and was too anxious to find the good stuff. Gradually, I learned to poke the earth methodically and listen for the telltale clink of fossilized bone. Poke, poke, poke, poke.... I found something! Gently I brushed away the surrounding soil and pulled out a small shard of bone. The expert affirmed it was indeed a bone shard (tiny, but the real deal), and told me to set it carefully in the bag we had each been given for our treasures. The others asked to see it in order to know what we were looking for - I felt like the hometown hero. I could have gone home happy right at that moment, but that was merely the first of many exciting finds today.
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| Look at that girl dig! |
I also found the fossilized remains of ancient crocodile skin - the pattern still vivid and intact. We in the paleontology biz call them "scutes." I found 5 of them in all. I also uncovered a vertebrae (I can't remember from what - I'll have to ask tomorrow)*, and my BIGGEST joy was a set of two connecting long bones that will be "jacketed" (placed in a plaster cast) tomorrow after I dig out to reveal more of it.
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| The plates underneath ancient crocodile skin called "scutes" |
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| If you look reeeeally hard, you can see the long bones at the top of my dig. |
I ended the day taking a gander at Painted Canyon in the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Stunning.
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| Anyone still think North Dakota is flat? |
To find an artifact of such antiquity is utterly thrilling. I loved everything about this day. I am tired and sunburned and still covered in Badlands dust. There is gravel in the pockets of my shorts. And I am absolutely in my element. Pretty sure I'll smile in my sleep tonight too.
* I asked the next day and I had found the vertebrae of a champsosaurus. They know that because the ends of the bones are perfectly flat, not notched as others are.
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